Odes to Nature: Five temples in Tamil Nadu – Nanditha Krishna

Ekambareswarar Temple, Kanchipuram, contains the Earth Lingam and a sacred mango tree.

Dr. Nanditha KrishnaIndia is urbanising in the most unplanned way, destroying the basic resources required for existence. Air pollution, water shortages, desertification and extreme weather conditions have made every season a time to dread. – Prof. Nanditha Krishna

Environmental problems are challenging the entire planet today. Most countries in the northern hemisphere faced their hottest summers this year. The recent landslides in Wayanad are yet another environmental tragedy caused by unchecked deforestation and construction. Human impact on ecology is destroying nature, presaging a frightening future. India is urbanising in the most unplanned way, destroying the basic resources required for existence. Air pollution, water shortages, desertification and extreme weather conditions have made every season a time to dread.

Indian traditions nurtured nature as a finite resource. The primordial or cosmic matter of nature is made up of five elements—prithvi (earth), vayu (air), apa (water), agni (fire or energy) and akasha (space)—better known as the pancha mahabhuta. Their proper balance is essential for the well-being of humankind and maintaining their harmony is a dharma or duty. Air and water are essential for our existence. Fire gives energy and space is the nothingness beyond our control and knowledge. Unfortunately, the contemporary world has forgotten the importance of all this.

In medieval South India, as new dynasties were springing up, trade and urbanisation were growing. To ensure that people did not forget the importance of their surroundings, the rulers and the ruled protected their natural resources by giving them sanctity. Enormous temples were built to the five elements of nature. Each was a massive work of art and architecture, and a reminder of the immutable prakriti to whom we owe our harmonious existence.

At Kanchipuram​, Shiva is worshipped as Ekambareswarar and is represented by a prithvi or earth lingam made of mud and sand. To preserve it, oil rather than water and milk are poured for the ritual baths. There are Pallava and Chola inscriptions. The temple covers 25 acres and has four towers or gopurams. The loftiest is the 11-storey southern tower, one of the tallest in India. The temple houses many halls, the most famous being the 1,000-pillared one built in the Vijayanagara period. It is famous for single mango tree, beneath which, it is believed, Parvati once performed penance beside the Vegavati river. It is an imposing structure in one’s first view o​n entering Kanchipuram.

In the underground water stream of the Jambukeshwara Temple in Thiruvanaikkaval wallows the aapa or water lingam. Even if the water is pumped out, it returns immediately. This lingam was once situated in a forest of jambu or Malabar plum trees. A small stream from which grew a plum tree engulfed the lingam—hence the name. It is believed that Parvati made the lingam from the water of river Kaveri. There are five enclosures inside the temple. The massive outer wall covering the fifth precinct stretches over a kilometre and a half, is two feet thick and over 25 feet high. The fourth precinct contains a hall with 1,000 pillars.

At Tiruvannamalai, Shiva is worshipped as Arunachaleshwara or Annamalaiyar, and is represented by the agni lingam. The 9th-century Shaiva saint Manikkavachakar composed the Tiruvempaavai here. The temple complex covers 10 hectares, and is one of the largest in India. It houses four gopurams, the tallest being the eastern tower with 11 stories reaching up to 66 metres. During the festival of Karthikai deepam, a huge beacon is lit on the hill that can be seen from far, symbolising the lingam of fire reaching the sky. Around 3 million pilgrims attend this event. Before each full moon, devotees circumnavigate the Arunachala hill, performing girivalam.

Srikalahasti is the site of the vayu lingam, celebrating the element of clean air. This is where Kanappa Nayanaar was prepared to offer his eyes to cover the blood flowing from the lingam. The inner temple was constructed around 5th century CE by the Pallavas, and the outer temple in the 11th century by Rajendra Chola and later by Vijayanagara kings. Inside the sanctum sanctorum, there is a lamp that remains permanently lit despite the lack of air. Despite the constant ritual bath with a mixture of water, milk, camphor, panchamrita, sandal paste and flowers, the vayu lingam remains clean and untouched, as pure as air. According to legend, Shiva was worshipped by an elephant who sprayed water to keep the premises clean; a spider spun a web to protect the lord from dust and bad weather; and a snake decorated the lingam with a precious gem.

Chidambaram, which houses the Temple of Nataraja, displays the 108 karanas from Bharata Muni’s Natya Shastra. The present temple was built in the 10th century when the town was the capital of the Chola dynasty. After its consecration by the Cholas, Shiva is believed to have appeared as Nataraja and performed the ananda tandava or dance of delight in the golden hall or pon ambalam. The temple contains the most subtle of all the elements, akasha. It appears as a blank space with a rahasya at the back. It is a marvellous work of architecture, with a beautiful gold-covered roof and four courts, of which the third contains another 1,000-pillared hall and the most exquisite sculptures.

All the five temples are imposing structures with exquisite carvings and 1,000-pillared halls, courtyards, sub-shrines, water tanks and ​gop​urams. The kings of ancient and medieval India ensured that the people were constantly reminded of what they owed to nature. It would help if we remembered their message. – The New Indian Express, 4 August 2024

Prof. Nanditha Krishna is an author, historian and environmentalist based in Chennai.

Arunachaleshwar Temple, Tiruvannamalai, contains the Agni Lingam.